Cotton is not only one of the world's most ancient crops but also its most important natural fiber. Each year, about 20 million tons are produced on 1% of the earth's cultivated land. The major producing countries are China, the US, India, Pakistan, states of the former Soviet Union and Turkey.

The cotton industry is also a major source of pollution. Between its planting and harvest, cotton can be treated up to 20 times against parasites and other harmful insects. The volume of pesticides sprayed annually on cotton plantations is equal to a fifth of global consumption. The impact of these substances on water, soil and the air is considerable. They may also destroy insects such as bees and thus interfere with the food chain.

Their effect on people is not negligible either, particularly for laborers in developing countries who must often work in the presence of pesticides without adequate protection. According to a report by the World Health Organization, three million people are poisoned each year in this way.

Chemical treatment of cotton continues after its harvest. Indeed, fibers are often bleached and colored by use of harmful chemical products. And in India, for example, waste water from these processes often flows directly into rivers without passing through a treatment plant.

So the ecological trend now shaping the industry has very good reasons for existing. The pioneers who led the pursuit of environmentally harmless production methods for cotton goods are today being followed by the biggest retailing names in their devotion to ecological production.In Switzerland, there are, as yet, no legal directives in this area. Each producer is free to define "natural" and "bio" in his own way. For the cotton supplier, the following environmental criteria should be observed:

• Reduction, if not elimination, of all pesticides on cotton crops
• Cotton must be picked by hand (without use of defoliants)
• A guaranteed minimum wage for cotton workers
• Processing and coloring of cotton with minimal use of chemicals, water and energy

• Formaldehyde is the base for a synthetic resin used in finishing high-quality garments. Its effect is to prevent shrinkage and reduce wrinkling.
• Heavy metals may be in contact with textiles during finishing, dyeing or from anti-parasite treatment.

• No traces of pesticides or herbicides have yet been detected in conventionally produced cotton. These substances do not easily degrade, however, and will still be identifiable after several generations. It follows that in this context, the label 'non-toxic' does not necessarily mean that the fabric was produced without pesticides.

• Pentachlorophenol (PCP) is a carcinogen and has been banned in Switzerland. Developing countries use it to cope with mildew stains in clothing.
• AZO colorants (synthetic dyes based on azote) can be carcinogenic.

The International Commission on Research and Tests for Ecological Textiles (abbreviated to Öko-Tex) created the 'Confidence in Textiles' logo in 1992. The symbol shows that a product has been tested according to Öko-Tex Standard 100 and offers a guarantee of respect for limits on the use of the following pollutants: pesticides, formaldehyde, copper, cobalt, chrome, 2,4-D and 2,4-T.

Öko-Tex Standard 100 is concerned only with health protection in respect of the finished product. It does not apply to production; in other words it does not take into account ecological criteria for cotton cultivation, processing or work conditions.

Toxic substances defined under this standard are those:

• that are present in a textile product or garment in quantities superior to defined limits.
• that are present during normal use in quantities superior to predefined limits and that may have any harmful effect on humans.
• that, based on present knowledge, may turn out to be harmful to human health
• The label "Confidence in Textiles: tested for harmful substances according to Öko-Tex standard 100" does not constitute a quality standard and applies only to the finished product. It takes no account of performance aspects such as durability, wearability, physical properties or flame resistance.

The Öko-Tex standard 100 tests for the following and guarantees that their prescribed limits have not been exceeded:

PH value, formaldehyde, extractable heavy metals, arsenic, lead, cadmium, chrome, cobalt, copper, nickel, mercury, pesticides, pentachlorophenol, colorants as carcinogens or allergens.

Also tested for are the fabric's resistance to: water dyes, dry and wet friction, saliva and perspiration as well as for any possible emissions of volatile substances or undesirable odors.

Today all of Switcher's suppliers are certified according to Öko-Tex standard 100. We are now working on level 1000, which is a new certificate dealing purely with ecological aspects.